Vitale Barberis Canonico
The Duke of Windsor supposedly pioneered a dinner jacket in midnight blue barathea fabric. Combed, with a wool warp and a mohair weft, it is light and wrinkle-proof, holding pleats perfectly and with a sumptuous drape. Ideal for evening wear.
Produced from both carded yarn that combed with armor to twill, Bedford Cord varies in weight and is ideal for trousers and dresses. It is recognised for the characteristic vertical costina net and surveyed.
A formal combed fabric with an unusual weave, creating a network from which stand out many little light-coloured rounded points. Similar to grisaille, but with a smaller range of weight, from 300 to 400 grammes, and suitable for suits and professional wear.
The queen of wools and the wool of queens, so highly esteemed that connoisseurs consider it worthy even of "confidential" uses. Soft and seductive to the touch, it can be woven both carded or combed. Its high weight-to-warmth ratio makes it the best possible material for coats.
Made from combed yarn with two tightly twisted plies, giving it a robust elasticity and great resistance to wear and tear. This makes it particularly suitable for trousers for active use or travelling, and it matches well with other sporting fabrics.
This type of carded flannel has a notable autonomy of design, and it is not by chance that it has become a common denominator of many men in important positions. The classic suit worn by City bankers.
Batavia fabric, weighing over 500 grammes, produced from coarse wool from the Scottish breed of sheep of the same name. Remembered with nostalgia, but now almost completely absent from everyday use. In the 1930s and 40s it was a cornerstone of the male wardrobe, belonging to an era in which originality was never ostentatious, but instead suggested through small, studied details.
Mostly batavia weave, with slightly less elasticity than Cavalry Twill, it is a combed fabric with an outgoing personality and a smooth, compact feel. Its weight (from about 400 grammes) makes it suitable for trousers and particularly for informal and sport jackets.
The name indicates that the wools used are not from Merino sheep, but from crossbred or mixed-breed sheep. A hefty fabric with a batavia base, it weighs over 500 grammes and has an exuberant sporty character, unequalled for holding pleats and able to satisfy the most demanding of tastes.
There are over 200 different patterns of this fabric, evidence of the inexhaustible Scottish capacity for invention. Made from coarse carded native wools, weighing from 500 to 700 grammes, it is not only a type of fabric but also the expression of an aesthetic principle whose origins date back to the mid-19th century.
Carded cloth named after the Irish county. Unusual for the dots in strong and unexpected colours which interrupt the otherwise plain surface, and which have been variously called rain, meadow flowers, bursts of laughter or rays of sun among the cloudy down which covers the fabric.
Very long, smooth, insulating, thin and glossy: these qualities are what make this precious fibre so unique. It comes from Angora goats, raised in Asia Minor, and it has even been claimed that the Golden Fleece itself was none other than mohair and is held in great esteem by the local people.
Cotton with a levantine weave, made from both carded and combed thread, it has always been appreciated for its resistance and used in both military and civilian uniforms. Irreplaceable in the summer and perfect for trousers, its versatility has led to chinos becoming one of the most popular articles of clothing in the pantheon of classic international menswear.
Grouping of very similar fabrics, answering customer demands for greater softness and lightness. Batavia or levantine twills, from 180 to 300 grammes, are included. These are very versatile and can be worn year- round, a necessary requirement for practical clothing these days.
Almost always based on a levantine weave, flannels derive their appearance from the process of fulling, a kind of "controlled" felting. Softness, warmth and little reaction to light are the distinctive traits of carded flannel, suitable for informal and work wear. Combed flannel has luminosity and lightness, and is also appropriate for formal situations.
In practice a levantine flannel with combed yarn, distinguished by its shorn nap, dry feel, sheen and unusual patterns. Decidedly habille, though with something spirited and confidential, it has a surface clarity which cannot be obtained with other materials.
Combed, preferably batavia, waterproof, with delicate colours, it is well represented in a refined and complete mid-season wardrobe. No other fabric drapes the figure with such soft sensuality and its beauty is revealed only in the finished piece, when it expresses a conscious elegance.
Grisaglia & Co.
Combed with a batavia weave, with a distinctive alternation of dark and light threads, this represents a classic among classics of menswear. Though available in a wide range of weights and colours, it makes most sense in grey, in a range of shades adapted to every age and situation.
Carded wool batavia from the island of Harris, one of Scotland's Western Isles, still woven by hand. Its rustic simplicity means it can clothe the most refined connoisseur or the lowliest farmhand, and in every environment offers good transpiration, absolute heat stability and moisture absorption.
Loosely woven, coarse fabric, made with combed yarns. The weave is a variation of canvas, resulting in a fabric which is not easy to work with, so it is necessary to resort to some tricks in order to keep a softer feel.
It is said that both Jesus and the pharaohs wore linen. So noble it can get away with being less than perfect, it possesses an indescribable charm and fascination. But learning how to wait is crucial: after a few years the colour fades, the shoulders settle in and the surface becomes creased in certain places, lending a linen suit an air of total ease and effortlessness.
Combed with a tight batavia weave, with a nervous temperament and so often softened with a small quantity of cashmere. Simple and luminous in solid colours, it is ideal for a nautically inspired blazer, the typical navy jacket with gold buttons.
A thick, soft fabric, carded with a batavia weave, weighing at least 400 grammes, its true vocation lies in craft-tailored made-to-measure clothes. Its rich fulling means it is considered the best interpreter of the Prince of Wales pattern. It makes some of the most beautiful urban and morning suits, and should be present in every gentleman's wardrobe. However it is little known these days, and remains the privilege of a handful of connoisseurs.
Carded, batavia. stiff and heavy, from 500 grammes and up. it is the base used for District Checks. Irreplaceable for the creation of clothes whose styles have become codified during the centuries-old tradition of English sports, and have gone on to become international classics.
The classic pattern for this summery cotton cloth, supposedly invented in India, is pale blue stripes on a white or colored background. It has a slightly wrinkled surface and a "Riviera" feel, calling out for water and open air and harking back to its colonial origins.
The Japanese wabi-sabi aesthetic holds that supreme beauty is reached through the astute introduction of imperfections. Accordingly it is really the rough surface of knots and lumps, from the irregular threads in both the warp and the weft, which make this precious silk cloth from the Orient so spectacular.
How to forget Cary Grant's pale blue jacket in To Catch a ThieP That was Shetland. A batavia fabric of medium weight, made from carded (or occasionally combed) yarn, rough and luminous, it is the peak of refinement and suitable above all for beautiful mid-season days. The soft magic of its feel comes from the silky fleeces of sheep raised in the Shetland Islands, near the edge of the Arctic Circle.
Combed, levantine weave, around 350 grammes, worn almost exclusively by connoisseurs of the art of dressing. Despite its brilliant, changing appearance, it is the men who have chosen it who have made it the expression of a refined understatement.
The name says much about the amazing properties of this carded, ultra- sporty fabric made from coarse wool, with two or more twisted plies and a plain weave. Even after poking a pencil through the fabric, simple massaging will bring it back to exactly how it was before.
Light combed fabric from two-ply yarn. The plain weave and the strong twisting give it vigour, resistance to wrinkles and breathability, making it a summer fabric with great tradition and versatility: formal, informal, or even sporting, it complements a dynamic and refined man who cares about practicality as well as image.
Family of fabrics with three, four or even six plies and a porous interlacing, very dry and dynamic to the touch. Though combed, they are not very glossy. Despite the rough texture and weight, in addition to excellent pleat- holding properties they also offer unexpected levels of comfort and breathability.
Carded fabric which plays a role of great importance in a man's wardrobe. Its strong personality, however it is used, is expressed above all in its weight and roughness.
Produced from both carded yarn that combed with armor to twill, Whipcord varies in weight and is ideal for trousers and dresses. It is recognised for characteristic costina diagonal net and surveyed.